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4
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Description
mini 60s dress Girl's Mod 60s Dress - Child Size 10The go go look in a very Mod 60s design! This girl's dress has cutout curves to be worn with a navy turtleneck or a crisp white button down. It's a chic mini dress for a modernist girl's wardrobe with original 1960s hangtag. The 60s price was $10. 00! Girl's Size 10 Measurements Hip 33; Neck to Hem 30. 5 Inches Era 1960s Label ' . . . MADE IN U. S. A. SIZE 10 J . . . ' at back neck Materials Cherry red, navy, mustard and white striped acrylic tweed
The go-go look in a very Mod 60s design! This girl's dress has cutout curves to be worn with a navy turtleneck or a crisp white button-down. It's a chic mini dress for a modernist girl's wardrobe with original 1960s hangtag. The 60s price was $10.00!Girl's Size
10
Measurements
Hip 33; Neck to Hem 30.5 Inches
Era
1960s
Label
' . . . MADE IN U.S.A./ SIZE 10 J . . . ' at back neck
Materials
Cherry red, navy, mustard and white striped acrylic tweed with a wool look, soft and textured, backed in acetate
Closure
Center back metal zipper
Condition
Mint
Condition Detail
As new, never worn
Washing Instructions
Dry clean; or warm hand wash, shape and dry flat, steam if needed
Please note: All measurements (bust - waist - hip) are the maximum body measurements that will fit the item. These measurements already have ease subtracted and they are not actual fabric widths. To get actual fabric widths add two inches at the bust - one inch at the waist and two inches at the hip.
Size listed is a modern size. Any available vintage size is noted in the Label description. Please remember vintage sizes and modern sizes can vary a great deal.
Additional photos are often available.
Please let us know if you have any questions!
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Exchange/Return Notes
- We offer a 30-day return/exchange service after receiving.
- Final sale items are not eligible for returns or exchanges.
- To process your return/exchange, please contact us at [email protected]
- Please click here for more details>>> Return & Exchange Policy
4.5 ★★★★★
Based on 1828 reviews
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Product Reviews
★★★★★ 5
Works for my 2011 115hp Etec
Size: For 75-250 HP
Exact fit and cheaper than a trip to a repair shop. Make sure you have the proper gasket sealer, a good scrapper that's not going to dig into the sealing surface, and tools for the job.
I went on my computer and downloaded a video that walked me through the process. I'm a mechanic by trade but wanted to ensure everything was correct. I've been running the motor now for a couple of months. Peeing just as it's supposed to.
No more delivering, waiting, and retrieving my boat from the shop for its routine service.
Just follow your owner's manual to make sure you do all the necessary maintenance.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on February 8, 2025
★★★★★ 5
Great replacement
Size: For 5.5HP 6HP 7.5HP
Works as it should. Easy to swap out.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on August 12, 2025
★★★★★ 5
Works
Size: For 60 65 70 75 HP
Works great
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on May 21, 2026
★★★★★ 4
Great product
Size: For 85-300 HP
Complete rebuild kit for $38 and great quality and fast delivery
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on August 30, 2025
★★★★★ 5
If pump doesn't seem to work
Size: For 85-300 HP, Size: For 85-300 HP
Hi....I apologize it took me a while to get back to you with my results. Here is what I discovered about the pump and will also apply to some of the other comments I read in the reviews with people not getting the pump to work:
1.) I removed the pump to check the proper direction of the impeller and it was correct as can be seen in the photo.
2.) I built a pump shaft attachement so that I could operate the pump with a power drill.
3.) I attached the water muff to the unit and tried to pump water.....it wouldn't do so. What I did see however was that even at high hose discharge and small leakage at the muff I could not fill the water cavity in the housing.
4.) I installed a strap around the muff and tightened it very tight and THEN at high hose pressure I was able to get the cavity to fill with water.
5.) At that point I activated the drill and was able to get the pump to actually pump water. I then removed the pump housing and removed the O-Ring that resides on top of the impeller, reassembled and it would not pump water. Since the O-Ring sits higher than the original does I wanted to make sure that it was necessary to have it in the pump.
6.) I reassembled the engine and kept the tight strap on the bottom and finally it pumped water into the engine.
My conclusion that you can reply to other buyers if they have a problem:
Do NOT underestimate 2 things....1.)the lack of ability of the pump to draw water up AND 2.)the fact that if the muff leaks it will NOT fill the cavity when common sense says it should. This was a 120hp Johnson. The engine bottom must be immersed fully or the muff must be very tight on the lower unit for the pump to function.
Please feel free to post this if you wish.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on August 12, 2024
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